How to Build a Kegerator Collar

by Billy Broas



Update: I put all of the keezer build posts in one place. There you will find pictures, parts lists, and links to all of my posts on building the keezer. Start there if you’re interested in building your own (and you should be…it’s sweet).

She’s done. Sorta.

There are still some finishing touches to be made on my new kegerator but the collar build was a success and beer is flowing. If you missed it, you can read about my kegerator plan here.

Since the kegerator is made from a chest freezer, most people would call it a keezer. The main part of building the keezer was building the keezer collar. I spent hours looking at examples all over the internet. There are tons of designs out there and from those I conceptualized what I wanted mine to look like.

With a plan and place and anxious to get started, I told my Dad what I wanted to accomplish. He hopped a flight from Virginia to Denver to help with the build. This wasn’t something he was going to miss. I’m good with a boil kettle, but he’s better with a hammer and I couldn’t have made something this beautiful without him.

Without further ado, here are the instructions that go with the video for building the keezer collar. I hope it helps homebrewers who want to build their own.

How it Works

A keezer collar gives you a way to build a kegerator without drilling through the freezer. Some of the benefits are:

  • It gives you a place to mount your taps without drilling through the freezer.
  • It gives you more room. With the collar, I can fit an extra corny keg on the inside shelf which I couldn’t fit before.
  • If you keep your CO2 tank outside the freezer, you can drill holes in the collar to run your gas lines.
  • You can mount other accessories like C02 manifolds, drip trays, and bottle openers. You could also put chalk paint on it to display your tap list.
  • It looks badass.

There is an inner collar and an outer collar. The inner collar rests on the ledge of the freezer. The freezer’s lid is removed and reattached to the inner collar. The outer collar bolts to the inner collar. It is a couple inches taller than the inner collar, so it hangs down lower over the outside of the freezer.

Although no part of the collar is physically attached to the chest freezer, the outer collar hangs down low so it essentially locks the whole thing in place. If you tried to pull it off, the outer collar would bump into the freezer.

Type of wood for the collar

A trip through the lumber section at Home Depot may overwhelm you with all of the varieties of wood to choose from. Key things to consider are appearance, cost, and durability.

For the inner collar we went with untreated pine. It’s cheap, and since it’s on the inside appearance isn’t as much of an issue. For the outer collar we went with oak. Although much more expensive, oak looks simply fantastic. For all the work we’re putting into this thing I didn’t want it to look cheap. Plus, oak is much harder and more durable than pine. That’s important since it’s on the outside (this is a kegerator which means stumbling drunk people will be around it).

Attach the collar to the freezer or lid?

We rested it on the freezer as opposed to attaching it to the lid. Some people attach it to the lid because:

  1. They don’t want to whack (and possibly break) a shank or faucet with a full keg when lifting it over the collar. Attaching the collar to the lid gets everything out of the way when the freezer is open.
  2. They don’t want to lift kegs the extra distance over the collar.

It’s personal preference, but to me those reasons weren’t worth the extra effort it takes to attach it to the lid. To avoid #1, I just load from the side and am careful. As for #2, if I can’t lift a keg an extra 6 inches then I shouldn’t be lifting it at all.

Besides, the collar with all the attachments is pretty heavy and I don’t want to put the extra strain on the hinges which weren’t meant to bear the weight.

Kegerator Collar Parts

  • 12 feet of 1×8 red oak – $45
  • 14 feet of 2×6 pine – $9
  • Red Mahogany Stain (1 jar) – $6
  • Minwax Semi-Gloss Spar Varnish (1 spay can) – $8
  • Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (1 jar) – $6
  • Sponge Rubber Weatherstrip – $4
  • Brass Bolts (12 total) – $10
  • Gusset Angle Brackets (4 total) -$4
  • Wood Screws – $8
  • Washers – $3
  • Nuts – $3
  • Total – $106

Building the Kegerator Collar

  1. Remove the freezer lid by unscrewing the hinges. Put a long nail or drill bit through the hole so the spring doesn’t let the hinge whack you in the face.
  2. Measure the front, back, and sides of the top of the freezer. These will be the dimensions for the pine inner collar.
  3. Using the measurements from step #2, measure and cut the pine.
  4. Attach the pine pieces together using the angle brackets and wood screws, creating butt joints. You’ll now have the fame of the collar.
  5. Measure the cuts for the oak. You can make butt joints like you did with the pine, or make 45° miter joints like we did. The miters look nicer but they are tougher to make. You’ll want to use a miter saw for these. Measure the oak so that it fits snug around the pine.
  6. Cut the oak.
  7. Clamp the oak to the pine, making sure the tops are flush. The oak is taller so it will hang ~ 2 inches below the pine. We put the oak on the front and the sides. Since it’s pretty expensive we didn’t bother with the back where no one will see it.
  8. Mark where you want the bolts to go that will attach the oak to the pine. We put 2 bolts about five inches from each end and a couple of inches apart, in the upper area of the oak. With 2 bolts on each end of the oak boards, and 3 boards total, we used 12 bolts.
  9. Drill the holes and insert the bolts. Secure them with the washers and nuts.
  10. Put the freezer lid on top of the collar, position it so it’s centered, then reattached the hinges using the wood screws. This time the hinges will be connected to the collar, not the freezer.
  11. Measure and mark the holes for the taps. This one is going to vary depending on the size of your freezer, number of taps, and preference. We used my 19″ drip tray as a guide and kept the outer taps within that length. We spaced them 4 1/2 inches from each other and positioned them slightly above the midline on the front oak board.
  12. Drill the holes for the taps. This was tough because we were drilling through an inch of oak which is hardwood, plus 2 inches of pine. We used a Forstner drill bit for this. You could also use a spade bit. Make sure you’re drilling the correct size hole for the shank you’re using. We drilled 3/4 inch holes.
  13. Insert the shanks to make sure they fit. Ours didn’t quite fit at first so we had to loosen them up a little with the drill.
  14. The drilling, cutting, and bolting of the collar is done at this point. Remove the lid and get the collar ready to stain.
  15. Stain the wood. We used the Minwax conditioner to make sure everything spread and absorbed evenly. That dried quickly, then we applied the red mahagony stain. That was left to dry for 24 hrs, then we applied a semi-gloss spar varnish for a little shine.
  16. When the semi-gloss dries (a few hours), put the weatherstripping on the bottom of the pine. This will ensure a good seal between the collar and the freezer.
  17. Place the collar on the freezer and inject clear silicone caulk into the gaps between the inside and outside collars. This will insulate the unit and also makes it looks nicer. Wait for the silicone to dry.
  18. Reattach the lid.
  19. Attach the shanks and faucets.
  20. Attach any other accessories. I added a 4-way CO2 manifold to the back of the collar on the inside. I’m going to attach my drip tray soon.

For photos of the build, click here.

If you’re wondering about the rest of the keezer – the taps, gas lines, shanks, drip tray etc…..don’t worry, I’m going to do a post on that eventually. Because it’s not entirely done I am going to hold off, but since the collar is such a major portion of it I thought it’d be best to do a dedicated post.

When the entire thing is done I’ll post about it and include the total cost.

Definitely let me know if you have questions. There were a lot of little steps and I’m sure I missed something. Cheers.

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{ 127 comments… read them below or add one }

RJ August 26, 2013 at 11:31 pm

Hi Billy,
Truly Awesome!! Thanks for posting the video. I plan to start the collar on my GE 7.0 keezer this weekend based on your build except I need a overall collar height of 8 inches on the inner and will have to go with a outer oak collar of 9-10 inches. Do you see any issues with the larger collars?

Thanks,
RJ

Reply

Billy Broas August 27, 2013 at 4:33 pm

Besides having to lift the kegs a little higher there shouldn’t be any problem with that. Good luck!

Reply

Jeff September 19, 2013 at 9:12 am

I really like the way you put this one together Billy. I do have a couple of extra challenges… no mitre saw so no lovely corners and it will be stored outdoors in my shed so the collar will sweat I am sure in summer so I need to think about the finish of the collar inner very carefully.

But I will use your build as the base of what I need to get done.

Reply

Chris October 23, 2013 at 1:48 pm

Billy,

This is a beautiful keezer–I am going to attempt something very similar in the very near future. Your post has been invaluable in helping me plan mine.

Quick question: Did you attach the collar to the freezer? Or did you just set it on top and let gravity (and the sponge weatherstrip) create a seal?

Thanks,
Chris

Reply

Jim in Oregon October 23, 2013 at 6:45 pm

Hi Chris, I just made something similar to Billy’s collar. I used some caulking to hold things together. It really works great for me (in a house with kids and dogs who are apt to bump it).
Jim

Reply

Billy Broas October 23, 2013 at 8:56 pm

Hey Chris, thanks!

Mine just sits on top. It’s heavy enough that it doesn’t budge. You could do as Jim did though and make it more secure if you wish.

Reply

Dean Rittenhouse October 23, 2013 at 6:17 pm

Thanks for all the details. I’m still at the beginning planning stages of my kreezer project and you saved me a lot of thinking. :) ,, and your cost break-out on the collar is much appreciated. I hope to have my project completed in two weeks. Thanks for the help

Reply

Billy Broas October 23, 2013 at 8:57 pm

You’re welcome Dean. I hope to see pictures of the finished product.

Reply

Larry October 26, 2013 at 9:34 am

Thanks for the inspiration Billy, I’m off to the hardware store to get started!

Reply

robert gordon October 28, 2013 at 8:29 pm

My kenmore chest freezer has a wire harness to the lid which serves a lid light. This wire harness has no slack. Did you encounter this with making your keezer? If so, how did you remove this wire harness? Were you able to find a longer wire harness that would accomodate your collar? If not, could you refer me to someone you know who has encountered this problem? Any advice would be appreciated.

Reply

Ryan Cates March 30, 2014 at 8:48 am

Hi,
In the very early stages of my Keezer build and came across this same issue. Were you ever able to work around this issue? Saw this when I picked up my freezer but thought it could just be removed. Any info. is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Reply

David Hodges January 11, 2014 at 2:57 pm

Nice build, but havent you ever watched Norm? Safty first. You wernt wearing safty goggles! Going to be hard to find faults in clarity and color when your a blind BJCP judge.

Reply

wes February 19, 2014 at 9:07 am

what the size of this chest freezer? im looking to making one of these myself, and i like the size of this one.

Reply

Billy Broas February 21, 2014 at 8:49 am

Hey Wes, the chest freezer is 8.8 cu. ft. Kenmore brand from Sears.

Reply

Jeremy March 27, 2014 at 1:40 pm

Do you have to secure the collar to the freezer at all? does it try to flip up when you lift the lid or anything? I’m wanting to build something like this as a brew chamber.

Reply

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