How to Build a Keezer Style Kegerator
More pictures are at the bottom of this page
Your kegerator should add style to your place. It should turn heads and get people talking. The type of kegerator I will teach you to build, known as a keezer, will do just that. Then it’s up to you to fill it with great beer, but I’m sure you can handle that.
This page is the starting point for building your keezer. What follows are the three blog posts I wrote about the build as well as parts lists for the kegging setup I use. Make sure to scroll the the bottom of the page to check out pictures of the build as well as keezer picture submitted by readers who built theirs from my instructions.
Blog Posts
- The blueprint for a badass kegerator
- How to build the keezer collar
- How to add a fan and other updates
Parts for the gas side
- 5 lb CO2 tank
- Dual gauge primary regulator
- 4-Way Co2 Manifold
- Red vinyl gas tubing (5/16″)
- Gas ball locks
- Flare nut and barb (1/4″ to 5/16″)
- Hose clamps
Parts for the beer side
- 5 gallon Cornelius keg
- 2.5 or 3 gallon Cornelius keg
- Perlick faucets
- Clear vinyl beer line (3/16″)
- 1/4″ swivel nut
- 1/4″ barb
- Faucet shank (4″)
- Tap handles
Fan
Other Accessories and Resources
- External thermostat
- Eva-dry Wireless Dehumidifier
- Carbonation chart pdf (Thanks PA_Jeff for finding this)
Collar
My Pictures
Pictures of other builds
It turns out I’m not the only one who wanted a stylish keezer. This build has inspired many more. Below are pictures of a few of them from people who have contacted me. If you built your own from my posts, get in touch and let’s share your keezer with the world.
Ask any questions below and I’ll do my best to answer them as soon as possible.
{ 36 comments… read them below or add one }
That thing is sexy. I want a keezer. What was your total cost to get that thing built and running?
Hmm let’s see. The freezer itself was $340. Collar about $100. The kegging gear is around $500. Another $200 for Perlicks and shanks. Including random stuff a good ballpark for my build is $1,200. Keep in mind a lot of it I acquired over the course of 5 years since this isn’t my first kegerator. Time to start on yours!
I thought this link might be helpful to keezer users/builders. It cross-references keezer temperature with desired CO2 vols. to let you know what pressure setting to use…
http://victorybeer.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Solubility-of-carbon-dioxide-in-beer.pdf
Thanks for posting Jeff. That’s a very handy chart and the one you linked to is one of the best I’ve seen.
No prob. Your compilation is very informative and will help greatly when I have the space to put in a keezer, and I appreciate that…. You might want to grab that pdf and store it though – don’t know if Victory plans to keep it there for the long-term – it was referenced in their blog this month to answer a reader’s question…
Good call. I put it on my site and linked to it under “Other Accessories and Resources.” Thanks!
Billy, the keezer looks great. Thanks for posting. I’ll file this away for when I have the money, space and spousal-approval to build. I know you’ve got the weather stripping along the bottom of the collar, but I’m wondering if you had considered insulating around the inside of the collar. Might help a bit with the temperature regulation.
Hey James, sorry for the delayed reply. I’m sure insulation around the collar would only help. It’s really just a matter of laziness on my part. Once I added the fan it really helped, so I just haven’t felt the need to do much more. Hope you get to build yours soon!
Since you didn’t add an outer collar to the back of the keezer, have you had any issues with it sliding forward? I’m looking at an almost identical build for my keezer and am trying to decide whether its worth adding some kind of outer frame to the back of the collar to keep it from moving at all once it’s placed on the freezer…
Hey Jamie, the collar hasn’t moved at all. Not even a centimeter, even with me occasionally sliding the freezer around to get at the outlet behind it. I would build it as described and then determine if you need more support, but I doubt you will.
Hey im thinking of building my first one and i wanted to talk to someone knowledgeable about th. is there any way i could email you about my questions and concerns of the project and get your ideas?
Feel free to use the site’s contact form. Be sure to read all the blog posts and comments too since those will answer most questions.
Hey Billy,
Apologies if this has been asked already and I missed it. Great build, and fantastic instructional video. My plan is to duplicate much of your work already.
After using the keezer for a while, are you still happy with the collar being on the bottom instead of the top? Have you had any issues with lifting kegs up and into the keezer, ie smacking a shank, needing an assistant, etc? I’m still trying to decide if I want the collar on the lid or like you have it.
And lastly, have you thought at all about putting casters on the bottom for easier movement? I don’t plan on riding the keezer around the house, but sliding it out to clean behind may prove useful.
Thanks for all of your efforts to help keep us in beer!
Cheers,
Ian
Hey Ian,
I’m still happy with the collar being on the bottom. You do have to be careful not to whack the shanks but it hasn’t been a problem. The good handles on the cornies really help with that. This is coming from a guy who has dislocated both of his shoulders in the past too.
The freezer slides pretty well on my hardwood floors so I didn’t add casters. If you’re on carpet or are worried about damaging your floors then casters aren’t a bad idea. Neither is riding it around the house ; )
Any thoughts on hefting a half barrel up and into the keezer?
That’ll definitely make things tougher and you’ll need help. Even with the collar attached to the lid it won’t be easy, but your chances of knocking a shank are pretty high with it on the bottom.
I built my keezer out of some lower quality wood, but I think chalkboard paint and chalk can spruce it up.
Looks great! Love the chalkboard paint. I’m still on the “memory system” which often fails after a few pints.
Great site Billy!
I loosely followed your build. Thanks for the help. It really set me in the right direction. I got to document the process with short videos which I’ll probably post whenever I get a chance to edit the lot of them.
Billy,
Fellow Denver-ite here. I have been enjoying your website, and, as I am in the planning/budgeting phases for a keezer, your outline has been very helpful.
On your list of items (above), would you mind clarifying the use of the flare nut and barb (gas side) and the swivel nut and barb (beer side) are for? The ball locks obviously connect to the keg, so are the nuts and bars then connected to those, or do they attach to the manifold on the gas side and faucet on the beer side?
Many thanks, Billy!
Kris V.
Hey Kris,
The swivel nuts and barbs are an alternative to using ball locks with barbs like this: http://morebeer.com/view_product/18267/102293/Ball_Lock_Beverage_Out_-_Barb
Whereas those are more permanently connected to the beer/gas lines, the swivels allow you to easily “unscrew” the ball locks. It gives you more flexibility if you want to say, change a ball lock out for a pinlock without cutting the barb out of the line. Either on works, I just prefer these.
Billy,
Many thanks. I ended up getting pretty much your exact set-up for one keg, and have a plan to slowly build up to a 4 keg system with a keezer. I was hoping on doing all 3 gallon kegs, but it is frustrating at how hard they are to find used. I may end up getting 1 more 3 gallon, then getting two used 5 gallons. I have a 1000 sq. ft. condo that I like to keep very tidy and uncluttered, so I was hoping to be able to get away with a 5 cubit foot keezer, but a 7 or 7.8 cubit foot might also work, too, if it is black with a nicely stained collar. I need to eventually get an old fridge or freezer for a fermenter, but that can go out in the detached garage. It sounds as if you are using a mixture of sizes, too; care to give comment and thoughts?
Also, thanks for making such high-quality videos that focus more on the process and less on you trying to put yourself online while blabbing away about nothing. I have many books I am using while learning, but always find myself watching your videos to make processes really click. Good job.
Congrats on the set up Kris. Those 3 gallon cornies are tough to find. I have one along with three 5 gallon kegs. I use the 3 gallon for splitting batches and adding something weird or sometimes I’ll do a small experimental batch. It’s also great for taking places.
Thanks for the kind words on the videos. I don’t exactly love being on camera so I hit record, get to the point, then get off lol.
Billy,
This is a nice collar on a Keezer. I’ve seen the collar in BYO a couple of times too. This is also a great forum.
If I can suggest one upgrade that saves $35 if you are willing to wire up a temp controller yourself. There is even a youtube video out there on the project. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6PjiilVBXY.
I’ve built 3 controllers using the 110V version of the STC-1000 temp controller found on e-Bay. They can run freezers as well as small room heaters on low watt setting for fermenting as well as a Keezer. I’m on Colorado and have a building we use only for guests. It is a great place to ferment lagers in a closets using the heater side of the controller. My last controller build cost me $42 if you don’t mind shopping at Radio Shack, Walmart Auto Section, and Home Depot.
Drawbacks…. there are always limitations:
1) The STC-1000 relays are limited to 10 amps only.
Cooling Work around: None: The STC -1000 has a run-time setting built in for cooling systems. It is preset for 3 minute runtimes.
Heat work around: Use a 1st heat setting (600 Watt) on a Pelonis Model HF-0020T, Walmart for $15.
2) The STC-1000 displays degrees C. Work around: have a temp conversion chart handy. The temp conversion formula C to F is to multiple 9/5 degrees C and then add 32. F to C is minus 32 time 5 and divide by 9.
3) The STC-1000 had Asians writing the operating instructions. The instructions are real confusing. Work around: Write your own directions for functions F1, F2, F3, F4 and include a temp conversion table. Function 1 (F1) is used most often as it is the temp setting. I can post my directions if that would help someone. Let me know.
I luv this controller. It can be used in so many places. for example, last week I also have used an unplugged freezer in the garage using a heater side during winter. I set the run time to zero since the heater is not damaged when abruptly turned on and off.
I hope this was useful.
Bert
This is really helpful Bert. Thanks!
Awesome job! You’ve inspired me to do the same. I have a question though. I just bought the 3″ bolts that you used, but then remembered that they are supposed to hold a 1×8 to a 2×6. Did you run in to the problem if them being too short to do the job?
Cheers!
Josh
Hey Josh, the actual dimensions of the wood are less than the stated amount, so the 3″ bolts are long enough. I have about 3/4″ extra on the inside of the collar.
Hi Billy,
thank you for great instructions. your site helped me a lot. I just finished my build.
Great site.
Cheers.
You’re welcome Oggie, and congrats on the build!
Hey Billy – great site, its inspired me to build a collar for my keezer this weekend but I have a quick question for you – is there any advantage to using the bolts as opposed to screwing the fascia to the rough frame? I was thinking about just using some good screws of an appropriate length screwed from the inside to hold it together. Many thanks, Andy
You can use screws just make sure they are big enough to hold the wood pieces together. Should be fine. Let us know how the build goes.
Will do! Thanks Billy!
Build is all done! Knocked the collar out the next day buy was waiting for the taps to arrive before getting back in touch. I have photos too if you want them. Putting screws in from the back wasnt a problem and worked well, I just used square corners, no miter cuts as I was worried about getting them right. One word of note, which I was kicking myself about after the fact – If a piece of wood says its 2″ thick, its not really 2″ thick so I thought I could save some time and have Lowes do the cuts for me. I thought at the time this was really smart and would save me loads of time but I ended up having to put a 1″ extra block in on either side to account for the discrepancy….doh! It did turn out really well though, now I just need another keg! Thanks Billy!
Andy,
Good on bringing up the alternative methods of attaching the face boards to the 2×6 (or whatever your using). My plan is to actually wood glue the face boards to the 2×6 and use some thin finishing nails just to hold them in place while they dry.
Since these boards are on the outside of the larger ones, I’m not expecting any cold/moister issues. Billy, care to make a comment to the methods that I’ve got planned? Otherwise, if this won’t work, using some metal long bolts as described give it a cool look also.
Thanks for all the info. Planning my build to start in 2 weeks.
There’s certainly more than one way to skin a cat here. Wood glue and nails should work. If not, you can always put some bolts through them.
Thanks, Billy! Making it not just a carpenter can do. Keep it up.